Sissi trip report - for Allan

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Sissi trip report - for Allan

Postby Gemma1 » 25 Jun 2014, 00:21

Hi Allan

We've been back just over a week and I finally got round to writing up my trip report. I really liked Sissi, though it was a lot bigger than I remember from my last visit. It didn't compare to Symi though as doesn't have that small island feel to it. Sorry it's a bit long - my reports usually are :oops:

Sissi, Crete � June 2014

Flew with Monarch on an Airbus 320 from LBA to Heraklion which was an hour late leaving LBA due to bad weather. The flight was comfortable with plenty of leg room and we arrived at Heraklion to a temperature of 23 degrees at 2215 � wonderful. We had to wait on the transfer bus for about 20 minutes and the journey to Sissi took 2 and a half hours as we made numerous stops and went down several narrow lanes where the driver had to stop to summon the owners of vehicles blocking the road to move their cars so we could get through. We eventually arrived in Sissi and were dropped off at the bottom of the lane by the Marigianna where we were warmly welcomed by Manos and Billy. Due to an overbooking problem we were told that we were staying in the 'other building' and taken back down the lane to Jenna apartments. I�ve done a separate review on the accommodation so won�t go into great detail here but after my initial disappointment the Jenna was fine and was only a 2 minute walk away from the Marigianna. After unpacking we headed back down the lane for a couple of beers / glasses of wine at the Coconut Bar across the road � let the holiday commence!

The following morning we got up late and went to the supermarket to stock up on provisions before exploring Sissi with its picturesque harbour and good choice of bars and restaurants. Sissi is much bigger than I remembered from my previous visit over 20 years ago; no doubt it has expanded quite a lot over the past 2 decades.

After leaving the harbour we set off to walk along the coastal path to Milatos, stopping en route at a posh hotel where a small beer and small water was 3.7 euros. Continued on to Milatos which is a pretty fishing village with several fish tavernas. After walking round the village we had lunch at the Panorama Taverna where I had an excellent (and huge) tuna salad for 5 euros and OH had beefburger and chips for 7 euros. Both were delicious. We walked directly back to Sissi which took us an hour.

After a pre-dinner glass of wine in the Marigianna bar we went to Edem for dinner where wine is only 70 cents a glass!! I can't remember the last time I paid less than a euro for a glass of wine in Greece and it was very drinkable. A large beer was also good value at 2.50. We had a mixed meze and a Greek salad to start (4 euros each). The meze was delicious with tzatziki, meatballs, fava, stuffed vine leaves, different cheeses and salad. By the time we'd finished our starters we were full and struggled to eat the chicken a la cr�me with mushrooms which was also very good and came with homemade chips. The total bill including 2 large beers and 2 glasses of wine was 29.5 euros. Complimentary cake with ice cream and raki followed � we were stuffed. Walked back to the Marigianna for a nightcap � though the wine at 4 euros a glass seemed very expensive after paying 70 cents in Edem!

The next day we turned left along the road from the Marigianna and walked to Potamos beach which is a lovely sandy beach an hours walk away. Had an early lunch at the taverna � vegetarian omelette for me and chips with cheese for OH � 4 euros each - the omelette was very good. Walked on to Malia port and then back to Sissi on the rocky coastal path following a couple who were ahead of us in the distance as the path wasn�t always easy to find . At one point you have to climb over a fence though as long as you�re reasonably fit it isn�t difficult as the fence isn�t very high. There were heavy grey clouds over the mountains and we could hear thunder in the distance but it stayed dry as we walked on to the harbour and stopped at Avra where I had some delicious yogurt with honey for 3 euros. By the time we got back to the apartment the sky had cleared and the sun was out.

That evening we had dinner at Neromilos which is a 15 minute walk away from the Marigianna. As soon as we arrived we were served 2 complimentary starters � a delicious beetroot salad and a chicken dish served in a slightly curried sauce. We were going to order a Greek salad but Niki suggested we try fried courgettes and they were really nice � an excellent choice. For mains we both had beef stifado which was delicious. Total cost including 2 beers and half a carafe of wine was 32.5 euros. Complimentary dessert and raki followed the meal. The food was delicious and excellent service from Niki.

The following morning we set off for Spinalonga and caught the 0930 bus from Sissi to Aghios Nikolaos (changing buses on the highway) which cost 3.10 euros. We walked from the bus station down to the harbour and spent a pleasant couple of hours exploring Ag Nik before walking back to the bus station to catch the 1300 bus to Plaka (2.10 euros) � only to find it came down to the harbour en route!
When we arrived in Plaka there was a boat about to leave for Spinalonga and we climbed in for the short crossing to the island (8 euros for the boat plus 2 euros entry fee) and spent a good hour wandering round the former leper colony and visiting the small cemetery before catching the boat back to Plaka. Although I�ve been to Spinalonga before it was a long time ago and after reading �The Island� a couple of years ago I was very keen to return to Spinalonga and visit Plaka for the first time. Plaka wasn't how I imagined and perhaps I'd have been better leaving it in my imagination.

That evening we had dinner at Avra in the harbour � 1 Greek salad, 1 tzatziki, 1 moussaka (very nice) and one spaghetti bolognese plus 2 large beers and half a carafe of wine was 36 euros.

The following day we walked through the harbour and continued walking towards Avlaki Beach before taking a track opposite the beach which meandered through olive groves before joining the road to Epano Sissi. We walked through the quiet village and along the road which wound up into the mountains with lovely views of the surrounding countryside before eventually dropping down to Milatos. We considered walking on to the Milatos cave but it was an additional 3 km and we didn't have a torch so we continued on to Milatos beach and had another excellent tuna salad at the Panoramic taverna.

Walked back to Sissi and had some very nice strawberry cheesecake at Avra before returning to Marigianna for a welcome dip in the pool and spent the rest of the afternoon chilling round the pool with its beautiful mountain views.

In the evening we went to the BBQ at Marigianna � 15 euros � where there was a choice of bread, tzatziki, salad, pasta salad, chicken wings, sausages and steak. A large table was set up between the Marigianna and the pool which was a little bit cramped IMHO. There is a lovely garden area at the Marigianna and it�s a shame you couldn�t sit where you wanted as it was a bit difficult getting in and out.

The next morning we set off walking in the direction of Malia and turned left up the hill towards Santa Barbara. When the road turned right towards the highway we took an unmade road off to the left through olive groves and had a pleasant stroll through the countryside before eventually joining the road back to Sissi. Had lunch at the Avra in the harbour � chef's special salad (5.5 eu) and a club sandwich (5 eu). Went back to Marigianna to relax by the pool for a couple of hours before doing some shopping and stopping at the Pink Flaming for chocolate cake (4 euros) on the way back.

That evening we had dinner at Edem again � we shared the excellent meze (4 euro) and had sole fillet and special pizza for mains. The sole was frozen (it said it was on the menu so I made a bad choice) and was soggy and not very nice but the rest of the meal was lovely and excellent value at 21.5 euros including 2 glasses of wine and a large beer. Complimentary cake with ice-cream (delicious) and raki followed.

The following day we left Marigianna by the back road and set off in the direction of Malia. When we got to the junction at the end of the road we went straight on where there was a small sign saying 'Malia' and followed the pleasant part concrete/part unmade lane, passing a few houses (and a dead mink on the road #61516;), until the lane joined the highway 10 minutes walk from the Malia Palace turn off. We paid our 4 euros entrance fee and had a wander round the remains of the palace which was destroyed around 1450 B.C. by an earthquake. After leaving Malia Palace we had an early lunch at the taverna at Potamos (veg omelette 4 eur and Greek salad 4.5) before walking back to Sissi along the coastal path.

That evening we had our final dinner at Neromilos where we were warmly welcomed back by Niki. Complimentary starters of beetroot salad and pork with mushrooms in a sauce were followed by pork fricassee and pork cooked in the oven with feta. Complimentary chocolate cake and melon plus raki followed. Total bill was 32 euros and once again the service was excellent.

The following morning we went for a final walk round the harbour and into the Jolly Roger as OH noticed the rugby was on (rolling eyes) I was almost tempted by a bacon sandwich but as England were losing at rugby OH had had enough so we went for a wander round the back streets of Sissi before having a final lunch of chicken gyros at Avra (3 euros). Our coach transfer wasn�t until 1855 and Manos very kindly said we could keep our room on until 3. The transfer this time only took an hour and a quarter � half the time of the one coming out � and we arrived at Heraklion in plenty of time for our 2220 flight which left on time and arrived back in LBA slightly early.

We had a lovely holiday in Sissi and would definitely stay there again if we return to this part of Crete.
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Sissi trip report - for Allan

Postby JeanW » 25 Jun 2014, 00:55

Thank you for sharing your holiday experience - I love Crete and visited Sissi many years ago and have also been to Spinalonga and Ag Nik however my favourite resort on Crete is on the south coast overlooking the Libyan sea - Plakias. I was there for 2 weeks during May, and whilst it isn't as special as Symi, it has a certain charm, Olympic have great accommodation at very reasonable prices.
Lovely beaches, walks through the gorges and up to the hillside villages for those who enjoy walking, we went on a day trip to Chania stopping of at the War Grave Cemetery at Souda en route - a truly memorable day out. Prices for meals and drinks are very similar to those you experienced at Sissi. It all makes for a very special holiday.
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Sissi trip report - for Allan

Postby Gemma1 » 25 Jun 2014, 08:39

[quote="JeanW"]

Thank you for sharing your holiday experience - I love Crete and visited Sissi many years ago and have also been to Spinalonga and Ag Nik however my favourite resort on Crete is on the south coast overlooking the Libyan sea - Plakias. I was there for 2 weeks during May, and whilst it isn't as special as Symi, it has a certain charm, Olympic have great accommodation at very reasonable prices.
Lovely beaches, walks through the gorges and up to the hillside villages for those who enjoy walking, we went on a day trip to Chania stopping of at the War Grave Cemetery at Souda en route - a truly memorable day out. Prices for meals and drinks are very similar to those you experienced at Sissi. It all makes for a very special holiday.

[/quote]


I agree with you about Plakias Jean. I've been there 3 times and although Sissi has a prettier harbour I love the surrounding countryside around Plakias - it's far enough off the beaten track to still be unspoilt with no 'Malia type' resorts around the corner ;) I did the day trip to Chania when I stayed at the Dora on my own and visited the war cemetery at Souda. Funnily enough I was thinking it might be about time to revisit Plakias, it's a shame there aren't a few more local buses as apart from Rethymnon you have to walk everywhere and whilst I really enjoy walking it would be nice to get a bit further afield. Where did you stay in May? When I looked at Olympic brochure they didn't seem to be showing the Kostas-Chrysoulla for next year - though perhaps its a bit early yet. Plakias is very difficult to get to independently due to the transfer and I wouldn't hire a car.
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Sissi trip report - for Allan

Postby JeanW » 25 Jun 2014, 18:41

I stayed at KC in May as I had heard all the rooms have been refurbished and very nice they are. Prior to staying at KC I have stayed at the Irida Studios which are a 15 minute walk away from the main Plakias beaches on the road out to Rethymnon. They are basic but spotlessly clean with all rooms overlooking the olive groves and beyond that the mountains - there is also a lovely pool area with bar. I always travel to Plakias with Olympic as their prices are unbeatable with transfers etc included. You are correct, Olympic have not posted the prices for 2015 for either KC or Irida although some of the accommodation is showing on the internet.
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Postby Allan » 25 Jun 2014, 20:40

Thank you Gemma for taking the trouble to post that wonderful review of Sissi. I have been reading all I can about the place, particularly on TA, but it's nice to read what a 'Symi person' thinks :)

I booked flights to Crete simply because they were at the right time (weekend flights), reasonably priced and from Leeds Bradford. It was only after I'd booked the flights that I thought about where to stay.

Since we only have a week I didn't want to spend a long time on transfers which really limited us to the north coast but of course I didn't want anywhere busy. A bit of research led me to Sissi and judging by your report I'm not going to be disappointed.

Speaking to people about Crete whilst on Symi, the south coast was mentioned a lot and I seem to remember Plakias being recommended by more than one person. That is certainly a possibility for a future visit.
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Postby mr wotsin » 25 Jun 2014, 22:55

1985 spend 2 weeks on Crete travelling around. Started at Agia Galini[ which we nick named "the windy city", then Chania and Rethimnon , back south to Palaiochora and Matala with all its caves. In those days if you booked a holiday without accommodation the travel agent had to put a hotel name on your booking as the Greeks were not keen to has people like hippies sleeping on beaches.
The night we arrived the taxis were all on strike, privates touting for business.
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Postby Gemma1 » 26 Jun 2014, 08:21

The fact you can fly from LBA on a Saturday was a big bonus to us Allan as it means you only need 5 days leave. For Symi I always need 7 - though the last day is really to 'recover' from the long journey back and catch up on household tasks - I could manage with 6 at a pinch ;) Do let us all know what you think when you get back.

Might look again at Plakias Jean though even with Olympic the Saturday Jet2 flight from LBA doesn't include transfers so it means going mid-week which again uses up more annual leave. I really want to go island hopping again next summer but OH isn't keen as it means him taking a week off without pay - I know he'd go back to Plakias in a shot.

I quite fancy going 'village hopping' in Crete Mr Wotsin though think it will have changed a lot since 1985 ;)
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Postby Allan » 26 Jun 2014, 20:30

I know exactly what you mean about weekday flights Gemma, that's why I now fly from Liverpool on Saturdays.
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Postby mr wotsin » 27 Jun 2014, 21:54

Just remembered we travelled from Agia Galini to Chania by public transport, standing in a queue with luggage out in the sun no shade, locals with all sorts of packages including a piglet, live. We had to take the cases onto the bus as the storage was already full, there were four of us. Each time we stopped we had to lift the cases to let passengers past. We changed busses at Rethimnon for Chania.
At the bus station it was the first time Margaret had seen or used a toilet with the foot stands with a hole in the middle, not impressed. Chania was like Symi harbour, but a much bigger U shape. We just walked along the road till we came to a villa with "to rent" lady in next villa had the key, we looked and took it for four days.
Then to Paleochora by taxi [ must have been cheap those days] Hired a car here and drove to Matala gave two Danish hitchhikers a lift one day and the asked if they could sleep under our car for the night, we said yes and they were gone in the morning, left a thank you note.
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Postby Gemma1 » 28 Jun 2014, 09:32

[quote="mr wotsin"]

Just remembered we travelled from Agia Galini to Chania by public transport, standing in a queue with luggage out in the sun no shade, locals with all sorts of packages including a piglet, live. We had to take the cases onto the bus as the storage was already full, there were four of us. Each time we stopped we had to lift the cases to let passengers past. We changed busses at Rethimnon for Chania.
At the bus station it was the first time Margaret had seen or used a toilet with the foot stands with a hole in the middle, not impressed. Chania was like Symi harbour, but a much bigger U shape. We just walked along the road till we came to a villa with "to rent" lady in next villa had the key, we looked and took it for four days.
Then to Paleochora by taxi [ must have been cheap those days] Hired a car here and drove to Matala gave two Danish hitchhikers a lift one day and the asked if they could sleep under our car for the night, we said yes and they were gone in the morning, left a thank you note.
[/quote]

Well I've heard of roughing it but sleeping under a car is a bit extreme - think I'd rather sleep under the stars ;) I'm guessing unless it was a very high car that they slept inside?
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Sissi trip report - for Allan

Postby Kojak » 28 Jun 2014, 11:32

Going back about 100 years I remember "Danish Pete" whi holidayed in Symi when he was a student. For the first few years he used to sleep in a tent just below the power station, where the Two Brothers Taverna was later built
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Postby D and E » 28 Jun 2014, 23:29

Loved the holiday report Gemma - sounds a wonderful destination.
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Postby mr wotsin » 29 Jun 2014, 20:20

Actually under the car Gail.
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Postby Gemma1 » 30 Jun 2014, 08:17

[quote="mr wotsin"]

Actually under the car Gail.
[/quote]

I think I'd have problems even crawling under my Fiesta let alone sleeping under there :o Can you imagine sitting up in the night and banging your head on the exhaust box :?
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