Those Miss You Years, Are The Longest

[D and E]

Monday - Day 7

Yesterday’s stay in bed routine seemed to impact D’s ability to get up but he finally did by 7am and went through his usual routine starting with a cup with a cup of tea for E and then heading out for his walk. After all he had that goat to walk off.

He headed out leaving a small breakfast pile of dry cat food just round the corner and then up from the village to the windmills and then past those and along the roughish path to Pontikokastro.

One Of The Many Windmills

Old Fortifications

This is quite a gentle stroll that needs a decent sole on the shoe. D has his Teva sandals that he has sworn by for 25 years and is never without a pair. Avoiding the thorns and walking amongst the wild rosemary, thyme and wild garlic it doesn’t take long until you are blessed with fantastic views of Chorio, Yialos, Hirani and Nos.

Chorio, Yialos, Hirani, Nos

Walk a few yard further on and then you are directly above the desalination plant on the Sými road with views down to the bay and the football pitch. In the distance there is also quite a large solar farm. Of course without the substantial investment in grid infrastructure a lot of places on the planet that are blessed with the sun cannot reap the full potential.

The Pedi Valley

It was then back via the Chorio bakery for a bread micro and down past the school where the children were starting another week all smiling and looking happy.

Although there was some early cloud we decided to go with the Irini & Luca boat to Marathounda. The 11am sailing aloud us our frappe in Cafe Aiglios where these was a great deal of excitement. The local junior football team had won a football tournament over in Rodos and were parading their cup proudly through Yialos. The team were followed by parents, coaches, supporters all hooting horns and revving engines whilst shop owners and tourists clapped them round the harbour.

Luca & D

By the time Luca reached Marathounda there wasn’t a cloud in the sky and it was hot with a sea breeze that was most welcome. The little cafe along from the taverna is not open yet but the taverna meets all one’s needs. Sunbeds are €3 each unless you have travelled with Luca and then they are free. They are normal moveable sunbeds with proper umbrellas that provide shade.

Infamous Marathounda Goats

After a small Mythos each and a swim in the crystal clear but cooler water it was time for lunch, that has always been delicious on previous occasions and proved so again.

Our Usual Tipple With Lunch

Hold on to your hats but we find three shared small plates that avoid chips to be the perfect lunch! So we had the courgette balls (fritters) that were light with a hint of cheese, the homemade dolmades that came with yoghurt and lemon and were just the right size and so herby, and a plate of 6 decent sized prawns in a light garlic butter. These prawns were prepared the way we like them where the head and tail are left on but the body shell has been removed. At €15 for this dish we were well impressed.

Dolmades

Courgette Balls

Garlic Prawns

We watched the usual shenanigans with the Marathounda goats as they pop their heads over the taverna fence and get loads of selfies with guests.

Reading and snoozing and it was soon 16:45 and time to return. By the time Luca had picked up at Nanou and St.Nicks there was no room for those at Ag. Marina so another boat went out. We came into Yialos at 17:30 just as the Poseidon returned from its Round The Island day trip.

The very big Blue Star ferry was also docking so we knew taxis would be scarce and we were a bit early for the bus. Years ago we might have had the daft idea of walking back up but with age comes wisdom so we went to Alegrito for an ouzo and retsina. Then of course we were too late for the bus so we jumped in a returning taxi.

As we were getting ready there was a light knock on our door. Normally we bump into our host at least once a day but not so today. Anastasia was just checking we were all well - such kindness.

It was just after 7:30pm when Rainbow Time started for us and after our quota we were tempted by the proximity and lure of the Kali Strata restaurant again.

We were met by the owner and shown to the same table which we think was by chance and not a desire to replicate what we do in Yannis The young waiting staff are impeccable. They asked after our day and briefly commented on the swimming at Marathounda. Menus appeared and our drinks order taken and delivered whilst we indulged ourselves in the excellent choice of dishes this restaurant offers.

We decided upon a shared starter of the pita bread with dips and the grilled octopus. The thinnest of pitta bread, clearly made on the premises, came with three dips - hummus, tzatziki and a cheese based one. All three were excellent. The melt in the mouth octopus, that is not easy to achieve, looked and tasted wonderful on a bed of fava bean purée.

Pita With Dips

Octopus

D then had the saganaki prawns that were of significant proportions in a perfectly balanced sauce where the sweetness of the tomatoes is balanced by the feta cheese. E had the chicken souvlaki that came with tzatziki and nicely charred vegetables.
We stopped on the way out to thank and praise the chef’s in their whites and also to commend the owner on his work. It is no wonder that Allan has commented so favourably on this restaurant in this blog. Can we fit another visit in is the big question ?

Saganaki Prawns

Chicken Souvlaki

Once again we headed home at a very reasonable hour and reflected on a great day out in paradise.

[silverfox]

The Tholos Lemon Potatoes never disappoint do they.

And another meal at The Kali Strata which we love too.

Fine dining on Symi at it's best. You have both waited so long for this and I bet you are already trying to fit in all the places you want to enjoy whilst there.

More of the same please.

[D and E]

The Tholos Lemon Potatoes never disappoint do they.

And another meal at The Kali Strata which we love too.

Fine dining on Symi at it's best. You have both waited so long for this and I bet you are already trying to fit in all the places you want to enjoy whilst there.

More of the same please.

What I am trying to “fit in” is fitting into my shorts
Thanks for reading and for your encouragment.

[D and E]

Tuesday - Day 8

With our first week over we know the next 7 days will fly by and early morning thoughts turn to the journey home. D likes to have a plan. Splitting the journey over into sections made the whole experience less stressful and much more enjoyable. Although we could stay on Sými till next Tuesday morning and get the early morning Sebeco or even the mid morning Blue Star (thanks again to Andy for his invaluable composite timetable) we are now thinking about heading over to Rodos on the Monday on the late morning Sebeco and we have a cancellable reservation at the Best Western Plaza for Monday night. We enjoy a wander around Rhodes Old Town so this is quite an appealing plan and as we intend being back on Sými in Sept / Oct it isn’t too much of a sacrifice. We will see.

D was fully back into his routine and had been down to Pedi; back up the long climb all the way up past Scena to the turning at Zoe’s; then to the bakery and then to Sotiris Supermarket and back in the apartment, sweating buckets by 8am.

We had a very leisurely breakfast including some fresh peaches that Sotiris had had delivered. Then there was two days of blog to get ready with pics and some things needed washing so it wasn’t until 11:30 that we left the apartment. It’s a joy just to have a day like this.

The idea of a chilled beer in Yannis got into our heads and so we took the short walk and settled down and watched a few customers come and go. Yannis provided a lovely small mezes of pickled vegetables, olives, cheese and ham to go with two cool beers served in frosted glasses - heavenly. We had to have another two.

Yannis Rainbow Daytime Mezes

The chef from the Kali Strata acknowledged us and then after he had moved on Yannis informed us that our beers had been paid for by the restaurant. To say we were flabbergasted by this act of kind generosity is an understatement.

We then walked down a warm Kali Strata and round to Elpida’s where our ouzo and retsina was accompanied by a plate of tomato, cucumber and olives accompanied by small plates of hummus and a tuna salad.

Ouzo & Retsina

Elpida’s Mezes

A second drink came with a small bowl of pea, tomato & potato stew and a piece of cheese pie. Greek hospitality at its absolute best.

More Elpida’s Mezes

After yet another visit to the ATM we walked round the back streets and D had a chance to catch up with Manolis who sells a lot of Greek designed clothes and art. E then spotted a pendant in a shop we often visit.

The purchase of the pendant put the 4pm bus in jeopardy so it was a toss up between an ouzo stop and taxi time and for once the taxi won. That gave us time to start writing the blog and getting ready slightly earlier as we had decided to go to Trata for dinner.

But before heading down the Kali Strata it was Rainbow Time where an hour disappears in what seems like minutes.

The sun was setting as we walked down and arrived at a very busy Trawler Taverna. Every time we have passed, whether that be lunchtime or evening, every table has looked to have been taken. We were greeted simultaneously by the owner and the waiter, who lives beside our apartment, whom we have known for years. We got one of the last tables that weren’t reserved.

Sun Setting Over The Kali Strata

Trata

We always know that the food in Trata is going to be very good. We make a point of at least one visit every time we are on Sými and they have never put a foot wrong in all those years and so it was again. A shared starter of imam was a large aubergine halved with sweet onions and tomato oven cooked for quite some time - a dish to be highly recommended and one of those that each Sými kitchen makes slightly differently thus us having it several times during a visit. Trata do a very good imam.

Trata Imam

We added to that the grilled prawns that are exactly that - plain and simple 4 large prawns in their shells. The quality of the prawn needs nothing added.

Trata Prawns

E then had a generous portion of a very well made Moussaka that was all one expects from such a dish cooked in a traditional Greek kitchen. D had a hankering for meat and went with the liver which was so well cooked it just melted in the mouth. Our waiter insisted on paying for our retsina and once again we were touched by the generosity and welcome that these wonderful hard working Symiots give us.

Trata Liver

Trata Moussaka

It was 9:30 so we thought taxi rather than wait thirty (thirty five ) minutes for the bus. We just missed one and waited at the rank. Whilst we waited other people arrived after the same thing. Konstantinos turned up and quickly sorted out the pecking order so we shared the ride with a couple of locals and their little girl.

Anastasia was working away as we arrived home and came out for a chat before book and bedtime. A very lazy day ended and there is a definite plan for Wednesday.

[D and E]

Wednesday - Day 9

No need for D to go out for bread this morning as the beach bag was packed and we were going down the school steps just after 9am.

We went directly to Cafe Aiglios where we had the frappe, espresso fredo, fresh orange juice and a shared cheese and ham omelette for breakfast. As the Poseidon desk opened up D nipped over and paid for us to go on the Round The Island day out that costs €50 each. He also placed the beach bag in our favourite seat that is on the upper deck (as long as the canopy is up) at the front of the boat.

Whilst Captain Yiannis is still on the boat it is his son who is doing more and more from manning the desk to sailing the boat for the majority of the trip and of course making sure the bbq lunch is served - the next generation.

We set sail at 10:30 at the same time as the Maria boat and the Diagoras boat also left the harbour on their day trips.

The Maria Boat

There were 36 people on board so the boat wasn’t crowded and on the upper deck there were 7 of us. It wasn’t long before the first swim stop at Maroni bay and of course the usual message of “no swim, no ouzo”

The only change that we noticed is that there are now small piece of bread with cheese and salami replacing the pieces of apple that you can have with coffee, retsina, ouzo and red & white wine. Beers are not included in the price of the trip and a small can of chilled Mythos is €2.50.

Then it was a further two swim stops at the cave then another bay before heading to Sesklia for more swimming and the bbq lunch that is as excellent as it has always been.

D With A Bit Too Much Ballast

BBQ Chicken

Lunch Is Served

Poseidon At Sesklia

We left Sesklia and had one final swim stop in the dramatic St.George’s Bay with the amazing sheer cliff backdrop before returning to Yialos at 5:30pm.

Over the years we have met so many lovely people from different countries and cultures on the Poseidon and so it was again. If by any chance they are reading this then thank you all for adding to a wonderful day out.

Back in port we had a swift drink in Aligrito and then a taxi up. We were showered and changed and ready for Rainbow Time. Having had a superb lunch we popped into George & Maria’s and shared three dishes, Bourataki, green beans and soutzoukakia. We were home by just after 9 and after all that swimming, and perhaps a slight over indulgence in the ouzo and retsina, we’re asleep soon after.

View From G&M’s Looking Over Kali Strata Restaurant

There is no plan for Thursday.

[silverfox]

We love the Poseidon trip even though we don't usually swin and the lunch is amazing.

With the wine and a few Ouzo it is a tiring trip though even though you don't actually do anything but enjoy yourself.

The no plan comment brought a smile to my face.

[D and E]

Thursday - Day 10

After Wednesday’s exertions we had a slow start to the day with D popping out for bread and leaving the breakfast pile of dry cat food in the usual spot. Put the food down walk away a few paces and gradually little heads pop out from various places. There is clearly a hierarchy that they respect to avoid fighting.

Sými Cat

Then it was breakfast and blog time followed by some really important business. Texts to employers and cattery confirmed dates so we booked EasyJet from Bristol, hotel room on Bristol airport as the flight is at 06:25, and a room with Margarita above Nos in September. The normal routine has been restored.

All that took us till noon when we took a walk up to Yannis for a small beer. Well we had texts from the guys in the Bottle & Barrel back home telling us it was National Beer Day. Just as we ordered a second beer S&L spotted us and we had a most pleasant time catching up with their news. Sými life is certainly agreeing with them.

As S&L headed home we went in the opposite direction as E had a date with Takis. That bag she had spotted on Day 2 has found a good home. It was a warm day with the temperature showing 35C on the pharmacy sign. That was the reason that we stopped in Cafe Aiglios for another small beer and a retsina and just watch the world go by. As we were about to leave another retsina and a large Mythos appeared “from the boss”.

Big Brother Little Brother

E then went to collect her bag from Takis and D had an ouzo in Alegrito that became two when E returned. Then as there were no taxis waiting and Pavlos was all alone in his bar we had one more there - we are all heart

Takis Bag

When we arrived back in the apartment there was a small box of cakes that Anastasia had put there - she is the loveliest of people and part of a wonderful family who have welcomed us warmly for so long.

During Rainbow Time a couple stopped to tell us how much they enjoyed the blog - so nice of them to stop and say so. We then returned to the Kali Strata restaurant. We had booked a table on our way down the Kali earlier in the day as the place is very popular. We were shown to the same table as our other two visits and surprise surprise R&C, who we had such a lovely time on the Poseidon with, were seated opposite.

We started once again with the pita bread and dips, being a light starter to go with the grilled calamari. D then had prawns in orzo pasta and E had the prawns saganaki that she had drooled over when D had them previously. It is no wonder this restaurant is such a success. We will certainly climb the Kali Strata to return in September - or at least catch the bus or a taxi

Kali Strata Calamari

And then we walked home.

Apparitions In The Coffee

[D and E]

Friday - Day 11

We were woken by the sound of thunder around 7am. It gradually got louder and then there was a very brief shower of rain. Once the thunder moved on and the clouds cleared a wind got up and that was with us all day.

After breakfast we had a last visit to the supermarket to cover the last three days.

Then we walked down to Yialos where none of the taxi boats nor the other day boats had gone out. The larger day trip boats from Rodos came across and a few had docked by the time we finished our frappe and started to walk to Nimborio by the main road.

New Cafe Bar in Hinari

The Perfect Tree on the Road to Nimborio

Nimborio Bay

Despite the wind it was still sunny and warm and we had a beer stop at the shack and were intrigued by a scuba diving lesson being given.

After that it was the short hop to the cafe bar Amalthea that we had promised ourselves we would revisit. Every table that was shaded was taken but it didn’t take long for one to be vacated. This time D had the tuna salad and E a chicken Caesar salad. We were delighted with both, especially the portion size that was perfect for lunch. The people running this place are so engaging.

Nimborio

Tuna Salad

Chicken Caesar Salad

The long established restaurant next door appeared to be doing ok and many of their sunbeds were taken. The little boat to Nimborio was not running due to the wind and so we just retraced our steps and we’re back in Yialos in time for the 5pm bus.

This provided time to get some of the blog written before Rainbow Time - now only two of those left this visit.

We always have great intentions of going down but these have recently been tempered by the knowledge of staying down in September and so from the three excellent restaurants in Chorio Zoe’s won out and after a brief chat with N&J off we trotted.

Taverna Zoë

It was very pleasing to see nearly every table taken as Zoe’s has been a place we have never missed on any of our visits. It is the place we have taken people and it is always one we tell people to try. For anyone new to Sými, Zoe’s is located by continuing to walk straight ahead after reaching the top of the Kali Strata. You will pass a Chinese Emporium on your left and about 100 meters further on, on the corner you will find the taverna. The kitchen is on the ground floor; go up the steps to the terrace where there are great views down to Pedi. You will not be disappointed with the food or the welcome you will receive. Zoë is open lunchtime and evening.

We started once again with the prawns from the BBQ. Although the dish might be viewed as slightly expensive at €20 we share the 4 large prawns and they are a modest attempt at addressing the waistline. We emphasise modest

Zoë Prawns

D then had the whole bream also cooked on the BBQ. The good sized fish took centre stage on a lettuce leaf with some tomatoes and carrots and topped with onions. A lemon and olive oil dressing was an excellent accompaniment.

Bream - Now You See It

Now You Don’t

E went with the Moussaka that she said was excellent (note - D didn’t get to try it!)

Zoë Moussaka

Zoe’s young nephew was helping with front of house and did a marvellous job. His English language was impeccable and he was quick and efficient all round. Seeing young Symiots working in the family business and hopefully carrying on family traditions is heart warming to experience.

After a complimentary glass of retsina and that irresistible semolina sweet we walked home past the illuminated church and a very charming “guard” dog to the sounds emanating from the Secret Garden where Friday night is music night.

“Guard” Dog

Chorio Church

All the talk is of the unseasonal weather and a forecast of rain coming across from Rodos the following day suggests we play Saturday by ear. We will probably go down and get our ferry tickets and take it from there.

[silverfox]

The salads look very nice and that is a new place for our list if we ever return.

So nice to see you are having a great time with lots of very nice looking food.

[D and E]

Saturday - Day 12

It seems to happen on every visit. The first week D is up and about around 6am. He heads out for lengthy walks. As time progresses it becomes 6:15, then 6:30, then 7:00 and the walks diminish to the point of popping to the bakery and back. E on the other hand starts the visit as she means to continue and indulges in never getting up before 8 - as she says she is on hols after all. It all seems so familiar.

After the visit to the bakery and breakfast there was business to take care of. D had to go and get the ferry tickets and E had to continue contributing to the local economy.

As we walked down the school steps the King Saron was depositing hundreds of visitors as the usual docking place, at the clock tower, was taken by the impressive French cruise ship again. Two Saturdays in a row suggests a regular visitor.

The French Cruise Ship

Between a small queue at the Sebeco booking hut and the scrum that was the day visitors we made our way to our usual frappe stop. A couple that were heading off on Lucas’ 11am sailing - all back to normal on the shipping front - came into the cafe and the very pleasant lady asked if we were D&E, said how much she enjoyed our blog; how she had enjoyed Silverfox’s blog when he visited; how much she missed the daily blog James used to do (don’t we all but he is a full time successful writer, so it is understandable) and thanked us for doing what we do. So kind.

E then headed one way and D another. D back to the Sebeco hut but it had closed after the sailing so he then headed to the main ticket office that provides tickets for all ferries, produced the passports, paid the €34 for the Sebeco on Monday. The Blue Star was a cheaper option but with the timings and the Sebeco docking in Kolona it is our preferred choice this time. On his way he saw Konstantinos (taxi) so it was agreed that he would pick us up from the Village Hotel on Monday.

With D’s work over and a quick chat about the previous days unusual weather with Irini at the taxi boats he headed to the Stella Bar for a small beer and a chat with “the lads”. The wind had died down but there were still a lot of clouds coming over from Rodos. They seemed to build up over the Vigla becoming darker and threatening and then dissipating just as quickly. Everyone in the know seemed confident that it would not rain - and it didn’t.

E had had a successful shopping trip. We rendezvoused in Stella and after another small beer we walked round and got a very busy 1pm bus back up to the apartment.

E’s Sými Collection

We then walked down to Pedi through the valley and past all the small holdings where chickens, goats and sheep are all kept. Past the football ground and the 5-a-side pitch and into Pedi. We hadn’t done this route for some time and thankfully it all quickly comes back as there is very little signage.

We had hoped to take a sunbed on Pedi beach for a couple of hours and this is where the new regime impacts. If you only want to have a couple of hours on the beach you are unlikely to want to pay €15 each for the mid-range fixed sunbed. And because this price point makes the normal sunbeds more attractive none were available. So potentially two customers who would have paid €5 each for a normal sunbed and probably bought refreshments walked off to Kamares Cafe Bar and sat and watched the comings and goings of the boats in the bay.

This relatively new venture sits right beside where the bus turns and below accommodation we stayed in a few years back. It was a super apartment in a great location. The new cafe bar is excellent with a small snacks menu. E had a piece of quiche that was clearly homemade and as light as a feather. This is a very popular place with tourists and locals alike.

We then decided to walk up although the 4:30 bus was due any minute. The idea behind the madness was that we would work up an appetite for the evening ahead. We almost made it ahead of the bus.

We had an 8pm reservation so after a quick Rainbow Time we repeated our previous Saturday with cocktails on the jetty of the Nireus and dinner in Tholos.

We were shown to the same table as the previous week and every other table was taken. We started with our favourite - the prawns. These were super fresh as the shells almost fell off. We accompanied these four beauties with spetzofai - a dish we had almost forgotten about. Smoked pork sausage with peppers. Tholos uses two types of sausage and this was a stand out dish.

Spetzofai

Prawns & More Prawns

D followed that with rabbit served with mashed potatoes that were so smooth and herby. A generous piece of rabbit - a meat that is well underestimated in his opinion - was perfectly cooked with juniper and bay leaf.

Rabbit

E had the grilled octopus and added to that a side order of the waxy lemon potatoes that are truly irresistible.

Grilled Octopus

After a complimentary plate of melon we had plenty of time to walk back round a busy harbour side. We were early for the 10pm bus and were in luck with Konstantinos in the taxi rank.

The Walk Home

We then caught up with the days news with Anastasia and bade her kalinichta before retiring at our earliest time yet. Bliss.

[D and E]

The salads look very nice and that is a new place for our list if we ever return.

So nice to see you are having a great time with lots of very nice looking food.

Many thanks our good friend. You are mentioned often by those who would love to see you back on the rock.

[D and E]

Sunday - Day 13

The Sunday bells are ringing before 7am but there is no bread run so D got to work on the blog before breakfast but didn’t get to finish it as we wanted to get to St. Nicks early and so walked down the Pedi road and waited a few minutes to catch George’s boat. His nephew was describing July & August to us !

Once again there was unseasonal cloud but that only spasmodically interrupted the sun and overall it was a hot sunny day and there were not too many people there.

St.Nicks

After frappe, a swim and a small beer it was time to read until E’s inner clock said lunch. Greek salad, tzatziki and perfectly grilled chicken were all most enjoyable.

Grilled Chicken St.Nicks

The View From The Lunch Table

As we had to pack, and had a coffee date at 5pm, we decided to get the 3pm boat back and started packing. We then had a lovely hour with Konstantinos and his wife, catching up with our respective news.

It was then time to shower and walk up for the final Rainbow Time of this visit. The village was becoming busy as we said “see you in September” to Yannis as there had been a funeral earlier.

Sticking with tradition when staying “up” we went to Zoe’s where we were welcomed by Nikos and placed in the safe hands of Thassos, Zoe’s nephew, who was once again doing an excellent job in a busy restaurant whilst Zoë helped out in the kitchen before returning to front of house.

D had kept the best till last and followed imam and tuna fish salad with the beef stiffado that falls apart in that light herby almost sweet gravy that is absorbed by the home made chips - a dish he dreams about. E went with her go to dish - the chicken in orange and lemon with lovely lemon potatoes. The complimentary semolina cake that will be sadly missed ended a fabulous last night on Sými dinner.

Imam & Tuna Fish Salad

Zoë’s Beef Stiffado

Orange & Lemon Chicken

Semolina Cake

We walked the familiar path home already looking forward to September and a whole different adventure when living “down”.

(this last full day on Sými entry is being posted around 8:30am on Monday morning as we finish packing before heading for the Sebeco to Rodos. Our time in Rodos, the journey home and our usual reflections will follow on Thursday).

[silverfox]

Can I just say I've walked every step with you and "tasted" all that food in some of my favourite places on Symi.

I've enjoyed the blog so much (as no doubt many others have) spending precious time on your holiday to share, and you do so much for the island, spending your money, showing great locations and superb food.

Not being able to be on Symi this year I thank you so much.

Most of all though, I'm so happy for both of you. After a difficult time you have had a great time in your paradise.

The master bloggers are back and we should all be grateful.

Love to you both.

[keith p]

D & E it was lovely to meet and have little chats with you, next time we see you over there we must have a sit down and chat over an Ozou or two, you are both so knowledgeable about Symi. Hope you made it back ok Keith and Lynn.

[D and E]

Monday - Day 14 (Rodos)

And so we must leave.

We packed the final bits and pieces and said our farewell to Anastasia would made us so welcome. We were at the Village Hotel at 09:30 where Konstantinos picked us up, suggested we all had the day at Panormitis instead, but was persuaded to take us down to the port. A farewell embrace and we went for breakfast to Cafe Aiglios.

The day boats were busy including a crowd boarding the Poseidon early. Long may it continue throughout the summer. These people work so hard making visitors welcome to Sými and making their time in paradise memorable.

It was then time too make our way to where the Sebeco boats dock beside the bus stop. By the time the passengers from Rodos disembarked and we got on, the Sebeco II finally departed Sými at 11am. This is a bigger boat with a canopied outside deck as well as the internal air conditioned area. We had a smooth sailing and docked in Kolona just after midday.

Sebeco II

Sebeco II

We walked out the port gates and crossed the road to the taxi rank that is on the left. Although the walk to the Best Western Plaza Hotel is quite easy the taxi ride is only €7. Luckily a room on the 5th floor just became available as we checked in. Otherwise the hotel is always happy to securely store the bags. The hotel is always spotless and cool and the staff could not be more pleasant or helpful. It is within a couple of hundred meters of the sea and it’s only a short walk to the Old Town.

And that is what we did being fully prepared for the assault on the senses one experiences as they enter through the ancient gates of the walled Old Town. Stalls of souvenirs, artists at work, henna tattoos, hair braiding, leather goods, jewellery shops, leather shops - after gentle Sými this is full on.

As you walk around Sými harbour, and if you are not earmarked as a regular, you may be encouraged into Manos Fish Restaurant but in Rodos competition is fierce and ever restaurant tries it’s best to get you in. Smile and walk on is the only way.

We took refuge in our regular place - Socratous Gardens, with its beautiful gardens and very friendly staff who always recognise and acknowledge us even though we only have the occasional beer as we pass through Rodos.

Socratous Garden

From there we ran the gauntlet until it got so much we headed up one of the quieter alleys. We ended up in an area we had not been to before and there encountered a “damsel in distress”. Well it was Lisa from Nottingham who enquired of us if we knew our way back to the port. D has a pretty good sense of direction so she put her faith in us and after quite a walk we got back to Kolona where Lisa recovered her bearings and knew where to get her bus for Lindos.

We had a stop in another favourite - the Yacht Club where we had a beer and shared a spinach pie before having an ice cream on the harbour front and returning to the hotel.

The Plaza has a good A La Carte menu as well as doing its €20 buffet where you can eat as much as you want. We therefore decided to eat in the hotel rather than venture to some of the surrounding tavernas of which there are many.

Firstly we had a drink in the bar where the same guy that has been there since we first started using the Plaza as a stop-over was serving. We took a table by the window looking over at the shoe shop - dangerous as E has a thing about shoes. She resisted the urge.

We chose the smoked salmon and the shrimp salad as starter. The shrimp salad was much more salad than shrimp but with the smoked salmon this worked well as a shared starter. We followed this with D having the Pasta Plaza that was spaghetti in a very good tomato sauce with 4 large mussels and 3 good size prawns. E went with the chicken souvlaki thinking it would be nice and light but to fill the plate it came with a load of chips and pitta bread. The chicken itself and that tzatziki was good. Despite a good wine list we stuck with water and retsina but it came in an ice bucket - dead posh.

Smoked Salmon - Plaza Hotel

Shrimp Salad - that’s THE shrimp on top :-)

Chicken Souvlaki

Pasta Plaza

The complimentary sweet of a small baclava and a chocolate pastry shaped like a boat would have blown E’s blood sugars so after she took a morsel of each D came to the rescue. All in the bill was only €52.

We headed up to the well air conditioned room and E listened to Wales getting beaten at football on BBCWales courtesy of BBC Sounds over wifi.


Tuesday / Wednesday - Days 15 & 16

On waking up the EasyJet App alerted us to a delay to the flight of about an hour. We had been delayed on the way out as readers might recall.

Being in no hurry we went down for the extensive buffet breakfast just after 9am. The selection is so vast it can’t be reported. Even if you are not staying in the hotel you can pay €9 for a walk-in and that is super value in our opinion.

After sorting out the bags and checking out (check out time is 11am) we saw two Sými regulars in reception who were also heading home on the same flight as us. We had waved to each other throughout the visit and finally had a chance to say hello. Like so many regulars our paths will cross again in September.

Reception called a taxi for us and it was there almost immediately and 20 minutes later we strolled to EasyJet bag-drop, were through security in record time and sitting in the wine bar at the far end of the airport overlooking the end of the runway - another one of our habits.

From there D wrote up the blog and E went to get some bits and pieces from the shops to give folk at home a hint of Greece.

Watch out for the nice dry white wine at €13 for a small glass and the “Tasty Nat Nuti Mix” that is predominant a bag of raisins with a few nuts thrown in.

The EasyJet flight delay got longer and longer and what should have been a 14:40 departure finally got off the ground at 18:20. Excuses started with the App stating air traffic problems impacting the designated aircraft on its previous journey prior to it then heading to Rhodes; then on board we were told it was due to thunderstorms that morning; then a while later we saw one of the outbound passengers who had arrived on our aircraft being escorted back by the police / border control - seems he had lost his passport despite the crew searching around his seat and in the lockers above, and had been refused entry into Greece (think that would destroy us); and possibly due to that, our aircraft lost its slot and the later flight to Gatwick got airborne before us. The crew were exemplary and controlled the situation with smiles and humour. And after all they were having to work extended hours. We were just thankful that we had booked the Sofitel Hotel again for a night on our return.

Our late arrival, after going through the passport control “robots”, that seem to fail D more often than they succeed, and collecting our bags meant we could not eat in the Thai restaurant as it closed at 9:45pm (bit early for an international airport hotel in our opinion) but The Brasserie remains open longer and so after a quick freshen up we headed there and despite the loquacious woman on the next table that wanted to share her extravagant life story with us we had an excellent dinner.

The cost of breakfast at Sofitel is over £20 per head so we did not partake and instead headed to the parking reception where they have a very slick system. OK it is rather expensive but as trains are unreliable, overcrowded and difficult with large bags, taking the car is the simplest way for us. We still cannot understand why nowadays one-way hire cars between such major hubs as airports are so expensive. Europecar used to do an excellent rate for one-way airport hires but no longer.

D took the gamble to avoid the M25 and head on the A roads to pick up the M4 at Reading Services. It’s a very pleasant journey we have done several times before through some lovely small villages and countryside. The gamble did not pay off. What turned out to be a minor set of roadworks at Dorking caused a crawling tailback to Reigate.

But we finally hit the M4 and it was plain sailing from there to the cattery to pick up a very talkative Zoë and then home by 16:30.


Reflections

Perhaps we did not fully realise how much we missed Sými and its people until the truly heartfelt welcome back that we received everywhere impacted us. We know that this genuine welcome is extended to all those other people who have fallen in love with Sými and return regularly to show that love. If you could bottle up that magic and sell it you would be a billionaire overnight.

The food was excellent with no exceptions. The Round The Island trip was as always memorable and once again in no short measure to the people we met. St.Nicks, Nimborio, Pedi and Marathounda were super days out and we just adore the journeys on the taxi boats.

The island cannot be kept in aspic. It is a living and working island where new ways of doing things and new ventures will be tried. Regular visitors will know of many of the things that have been tried and failed over the years. Whether the new sunbed regimes at Ag. Marina and Pedi work or fail will be down to those people who visit Sými who on the whole seem to be of a demographic that doesn’t change much. When we look around we see the long established businesses and restaurants succeeding. We wish them all a successful summer.

Until September - Yamas.

YAMAS

[D and E]

D & E it was lovely to meet and have little chats with you, next time we see you over there we must have a sit down and chat over an Ozou or two, you are both so knowledgeable about Symi. Hope you made it back ok Keith and Lynn.

That would we enjoyable K&L - you know where “our seats” are.
We had quite a journey back as you will see from the latest and last episode just posted - hope yours has gone better - but always worth it.
You guys looked like you were loving Sými and it’s so good to read you will be there again - we do hope our paths cross.
Take care both.

[D and E]

Can I just say I've walked every step with you and "tasted" all that food in some of my favourite places on Symi.

I've enjoyed the blog so much (as no doubt many others have) spending precious time on your holiday to share, and you do so much for the island, spending your money, showing great locations and superb food.

Not being able to be on Symi this year I thank you so much.

Most of all though, I'm so happy for both of you. After a difficult time you have had a great time in your paradise.

The master bloggers are back and we should all be grateful.

Love to you both.

Hi S&L - thank you so much for those comments that we know come from the heart. I know you get the same joy as we do sharing this wonderful place with others - it would be pure greed not to
You will be happy to read that the old rock hasn’t changed much.
We really hope it won’t be too long before you can get back to a place we know you love as much as we do.
D&E

[rockbottom]

Really enjoyed your blog D and E, it makes us look forward to our trip in September even more and be more adventurous with our choices if food! We look forward to your next trip!

[D and E]

Really enjoyed your blog D and E, it makes us look forward to our trip in September even more and be more adventurous with our choices if food! We look forward to your next trip!

Thanks for taking the time to read and respond Rockbottom.
You never know we may bump into each other again if our September dates coincide.
Of course when we stay in Yialos there will be a wider selection of restaurants IF we can haul ourselves past the ever excellent Tholos that will be our nearest. We will do our best.
June is almost over and July & August will pass in a flash
Take care.

[Pollychops]

Fantastic blog D&E, we thoroughly enjoyed your experiences and it makes us more appreciative of the beautiful island. We are so looking forward to returning this year in September and no doubt we will be visiting most of the places you have mentioned especially Tholos. I have never tried Spetzofia so that will be a must have this year. Thank you to you both for this blog.